Backpack-asia: April 2023

Balloons Over Bagan

I experienced the beautiful views of Bagan looking for a house that I had gifted in 1996, for me this was the only way to find it.

Let us continue with the year of 96 it seems a long story but one that was written by myself of the forgotten time in Burma.

Unusual fruits that I hadn't seen in Thailand piled up in colours like cones. Spices and smells of so many types with the sun shining down on them, the seller with white powdery circles painted on her face and forehead, everyone I walked past looked at me in wonder as not many had ventured here, I found an appropriate guest house called Daddy Daddy it was room that touched all three sides of a single bed by it's walls, I dumped my stuff an walked the streets of Yangon, noticing so many stores for the monks clothes, circular script with hardly any straight lines totally mysterious and the people's expressions told me that they were closed from outside worlds.

I found a place an ate and tried the Burmese food, it's sticky rice and curried duck with coconut milk with a side of hot chilli slices made me think no no not this time, I drank bottled water and enjoyed my meal I paid ten Burmese Kyats that's all, I followed the roads leading to the huge Shwadagon Pagoda placed on the hill as the city of Yangon could see the golden spire from everywhere.

Need a break before continuing enjoy!

As I arrived the streets were crammed with traders selling things from snake I mean huge wide skins spread on the floors also spirit houses with lights and tree bark that were either ground or not for the face protection painted on the body in circles.

Gold and silver and clothes in Burmese style, Buddha images and flags also an array of foods either cooked or not, the entrance had flowers many flowers of lotus for offerings, I walked up the steps inside the huge red and golden designs of the Buddha painted on the ceilings forty feet above.

Tiny shoe box boutiques dressed with offerings each side of the steps until the top gates that led to the marble floors of the Pagoda, in front of me was a place like no other that I have ever seen glistening pagodas of gold leaf, white stupas and zedi's and ancient teak temples with roofs so complex and beautiful it was, that I had to look twice to see if it were real. The silver work of the silver temples and the Buddha images in little houses where the worshipers had place their gold leaf. Mirror glass squares a postage stamp size covered huge walls that reflected everyone who looked into it.

With red umbrellas, a child walks in front of the eighty nun's who followed in a line say 100m long like the snakes body twisting among the worshipers dressed in pink and white holding their begging bowls of tin some of them with donations of food like flattened rice cakes and some with money.

A lady nun placed herself in the middle of the marble square decorative floors with her tin for donations, stable she sat under her cloak staring into to sun, for hours she looked straight at it, I was told that she was very advanced in her meditations and she should of gone blind but everyday she stables her tin and sits under her cloak and looks straight into the sun with heat so high it burns ones face.

Men with long teeth and lines so prominent it shows there life of sweat and toil they place their hands together I see their faces through the smoke of the joss sticks, sounds of the smallest bells twinkle above on twine stretched from one corner of an ancient roof top to another. Children of the temples running inside dressed like angels with bear feet and painted circled faces from tree bark eliminating out from their dark skin, I walked the marble floors cooling my soles of my feet in the shaded areas watching this faith being brought out from the hearts and minds of the people.

Leaving the temple I walked in the roads leading to the market area as I entered I saw many ancient methods of the scales, weights and mathematical beads for counting cost, long nailed fingers of the lady; her hands held the rusted worn scales her longi made from different colours she sat on a sack shading her face under the huge leaf in her hand, her skin so tough like an elephants she traded her assets to gain more money that fed her family.

Other trader's sell pure water dripping from boiled watered ice blocks into cups the ice sits on a stand, as some sold nuts, cashews and grains on palm leaves, mixed fish huge and small lay in the ice, placed on the palms the smell so potent it swayed the walker away.

A stall of giblets stomaches and kidneys, pancreas and brain, eyes and tongue ready for the grab, and huge water melons piled up high, as a child's tyre rushes past on the dusty floor and footsteps of the child follows by.

Let's have a break

Sunlight of this earth chooses it's place to shine through the cracks of the doors or between the trees it leaves the beauty of it's trails in the market place as I saw with my eyes on this God given earth he blessed this place. I returned to the guest house and slept for a while as the heat was unbearable, after waking I planned my next step to go through the country up North to Mandalay, taking a bus for fifteen hours to Bagan, the middle of the country where the stupa's and Zedi's were so many to count right next to the Irrawaddy river on a plateau of temples waiting to be seen.

In Yangon I bought a bus ticket and took a ride up to this region, as I arrived I saw the city to be so different, a place that remained untouched I could see this with my own eyes, I stepped from the bus and walked the road until I came to a group of horse cart drivers, one boy whom I thought to be polite, he agreed a price to take me shortly out of the city near the plateau of the Zedi's or temples of this ancient land, the slow slow pace and the sound of the white bull with this ancient cart creaked as we rode, then a breaking sound of the whip hitting it's back we headed for Nuygen Village.

Looking a across the plains the plateau, all the different sized stupas and ancient temples dotted this land, 11th century I was told I imagined the life then and thought back, as we approached another bull cart, the driver spoke his Burmese tongue to his fellow driver the tail of the bull whipping the flies off it's back we sped away in different directions. We came to a place where there were salt mountains where the village people bought it for their use, then the shops of lacquered zedi's statues, longi's and souvenirs just around the corner was a guest house called Nat 2, along a straight road that forked into two, I stopped their and asked the price it was a dollar a night a small room, I gave a tip to my driver and hit my pillow for an hour or so.

Waking later I took a cold shower and dressed then out to the porch front where I sat and ordered tea with some Burmese cake, there was a white fresh rose on the table and as I looked I saw white bulls slowly driven past the dust from their hooves and the old cart wheels shifted the stillness and evaporated into to air.

Whipping of their backs and a cry from the driver they travelled until out of sight, the flask of tea arrived in a bone china cup a bone handled teaspoon and a knife to slice my cake, the aluminium flask an orange and white flower detailed the outside.

This was a memory I'd never forgotten, the piece and the perfect moment of the whipping sounds and the yelled voices of the bull cart drivers as I sipped hot tea with the white rose placed on my table.

I sat for an hour and watched different life pass by a few huge trucks and one or two cars but mainly locals on bikes ringing their bells. I put the Burmese money for the tea on the table and walked through the plateau studying each pagoda, Zedi and stupa ancient as they were it was a divine pleasure, as the sun was to go down I returned to my room then to talk to the owners of the guest house, they arranged the bull cart driver to come pick me up at 7.00am to go for the day with him.

I lit the candles in my room and read about the area, then sitting on the porch I relaxed one more time drinking iced tea until I finally felt it was time to sleep. The next morning I woke at 6.00am and prepared myself for the day trip, I ordered breakfast on the porch and sat watching the morning on the plateau. The pedlars past by slowly rising sun started to come up and the orange lit the whole plateau, the temples were beautiful as the morning came to life, after fried eggs and toast also the hot burmese tea, my driver arrived with the old white bull he smiled and said " ok come Sir " I said thanks to the guest house and boarded the cart whipping next to me echoing through the land, the bulled moved slowly and off we went, through the day we stopped at most of the temples and took images of them also had lunch at a small restaurant I'd never forget it as it took and hour to make the chicken and chips that I'd ordered, the chicken was bone it was ok I did not complain the fruit was fine, we pulled away and continued to the ancient monastery on the Irrawaddy river made of teak and a few monks there, they sat reading there studies I looked on and felt a great piece. Then I sat on the river edge looking down to the great Irrawaddy it was huge and powerful but calm on that day.

Woman washing clothes bashing them on the rocks and bathing as time went on so I returned to the cart, we drove through the plateau and ended up back to my guest house, I paid a few dollars as he was happy and sat on the porch.

Then decided to take a guide privately in a taxi to most of this country I arranged from the guest house a boy who was overwhelmed to drive me I told him I'd pay for his room where ever we stopped and his food, for the whole trip we negotiated a fair price of one hundred dollars, this to him was such a good sum that we smiled and arranged to set off the next morning again but at 6.00am, for the following time I had left here I spent at the sunset on one of the ancient Zedis, up high looking down onto the plateau the sun glimmered before it slept and in the distance I saw the dust rising from a bull cart a mile away racing to get to the hill where I sat, it was a lovely place relaxed as I was I reminisced of life before this day and imagined my life in the future as this moment I'd also look back and remember.

The temple children run up the hill to where I sat their young faces smiling the circles of dust painted on their faces as the colour of the falling sun bounced off their brown cheeks, sounds of the bells twinkle in the distance I returned to normal ground to the roads. Lighting the candle and reading of Mt Popa a temple built on top was the first place we drove to the next morning the reading was exciting me so I slept till five.

My alarm sounded and within moments a quick pack up I decided to shower and arranged breakfast on the porch, a scrambled egg, toast and hot tea, my driver arrived and we ate together and talked with the guest house owner I paid him one hundred dollars and got the receipt, we looked at the route we would take.

Saying goodbye we drove off heading for Mount Popa about 50km away on route to Mandalay, happy and adventurous as we felt we drove an average of 40kph arriving at Mt Popa a huge rock formation that was in history the centre of a volcanic eruption and the last point of flowing lather, then in later years became the home of the Buddhist Monastery which was built on the top. The winding stair we climbed to the top and sat on the marble floors over looking the horizons of this area. A monk came over he said that he was Tommy, Tommy Williams in his dark purple robe and shaved head he smiled with his long tooth than the rest capped in gold. He went on to say that he lived in Burma when young and he then went to the marines as a sailor and travelled the World, he married a lady from my home town in Cardiff in the UK and that after the split he divorced and returned to Burma he later became a monk and remained here until now.

Many people talk with Tommy as he said and was a true friendly monk, we said bye to him and walked down to the road side and headed to Mandalay, after a few hours we arrived and went into the centre a small guest house, both had separate rooms and dropped off our bags we walked the near by streets and being more relaxed than Yangon we drank tea and eat a little true Northern taste of Mandalay cuisine.

The smells and sights and the tree lined boulevards made it a romantic place it's clock tower from the British and the whispers of the locals as we walked around we wondered the city for the remaining of the day, after returned to the guest house, we both took separate time and showered and dressed. Meeting later we met up at the local restaurant and eat dinner of rice and meat with duck and orange with ice-cream to follow, we drank and talked about going to Amarapura as it was a few miles away to the next city it had the famous Ooping or Uncle Bens Bridge this was made of teak.

So we walked looking at the life in Mandalay the soft coloured lights of the restaurants and the bike riders slowly pedalling by, we headed for the guest house and retired to our rooms.

Next morning waking early we had breakfast of rice soup and tea, then we drove to Amarapura South and once in the small city we drove up an smaller road through a village until we reached a river, an upon me to the right was the Ooping Bridge as this the teak that was taken from the kings home then put into this bridge it was used to help people walk the river, it consisted of many one meter wide posts of teak about 20ft tall laid in concrete beneath the water and rising above the water about fifteen meters, a foot from the top of each pole was the walking area of ancient teak planks weathered and strong to take the peoples weight this bridge was a wonder, as I walked here I respected the work that was put into it, I took a small boat and on “the river I stopped, then looking through its stilt's as the sun at night came down.

The people of Amarapura were weaving to make cotton, they sold it in the markets and before late at night we returned back to Mandalay to our guesthouse it was a well packed day, a quick shower and rest for the following morning as we intended to travel to the village on the river called Mingun.

Early the next morning after breakfast we drove to the river as a few boats where there we went on board a small ten seated one, we sailed to Mingun which was an hour away, on arriving I saw the Harbour simple planks of wood which we climbed up onto and walked into the village this place was like an Island surrounded by the rivers of the Irrawaddy, up high was the stupa that was one hundred meters in height that was stopped during construction as the an earthquake struck the region and till today it shows the huge giant crack, we climbed the top of it and saw the branches of the Irrawaddy and many white stupas dotted around after climbing down we boarded the river boat and returned, once back to our car we drove the the city on the river called Inle Lake it took a few hours so I slept for a while.

We stopped for lunch at the nearby village and ate simple rice and meat then off again we travelled arriving at the city on the lake, we parked and walked to the lake waiting were many boats long boats we took one and headed out into the lake.

The fishermen stood fishing with the nets attached to their feet it was unusual to see this and we stopped and watched, the water was dark and alive, we passed many homes that floated on the lake also schools the whole city was a floating maze, at the ancient temples I stopped and sat with the monks with their jumping cats through the hoops and went then to see the silver makers factory followed by the marble works.

We stopped and ate food at the lake it was a nice layout right in the mix of things we ate rice and duck with vegetables we talked about the day and the fishermen the way they fished and the life here on the river as the homes were like in Venice but made of wood and tin.

We took the trip back still seeing the fishermen fishing after arriving back we drove to a place called Sagaing this was known for hills of white stupas which dotted the land, as we arrived on the hillsides and saw over 300 of the white stupas it was beautiful, it was a place to simply look, from here we started a decline to Yangon as it took a while we slept or at least I did, on the time I woke there were ladies in the hills sat on the floor with towels on there heads chipping the stone rock to make chipping's they worked the roads for months they were paid by the government.

Arriving in Yangon we bid our farewell and thanked each other for a great journey. I found a guest house and stayed one night and reflected my journey I'd say the first part was better than the second half as later the time and the things to see were not so much but overall it was a great time when I return a gain I will spend my time in Pagan my favourite place in Myanmar.

After a few months I returned to Burma, entering Mandalay this time then down to Pagan my favourite place on this land of forgotten time.

Entering into this Northern region as I past Mount Popa 50km from Bagan, I got excited my reason for returning were the memories of the past time I spent here that I enjoyed so much. As I entered the city I got the taxi man to take me the guest house that I previously stayed called Nat 2 in the Huygen Village mentioned in previous chapters.

The porch I fell in love with was still the same nothing changed at all even the white rose fresh as before remained, I had the same room it felt like I never even left the manager was happy for my return so ordering the usual tea and cake out on the porch I took a quick shower and enjoyed the retirement outside.

I asked the manager to get word to the bull cart driver that toured me around the previous time so after an hour I heard a cart arriving as I looked it was my friend he stopped and ran over sat on the seat next to the table we had tea and translated to me he offered to take me temple hopping the next morning and he mentioned a good rate of pay that we agreed as it was half of what the others charged.

He went on his way and I went into the salt mountain near by after I returned spent time at the guest house till next morning. At 7.00 am Ed the driver picked me up I didn't know his name before I did wonder what his real name was but sure he liked Ed, I pulled myself onto the cart ancient as it was as his father owned the fleet of cart's in the area, we rode slowly around each Zedi and took images one then another until 5.00pm tiring it was but the time was fantastic, as the sun was at it's nicest the temples where shades of golden from the sun I sat on the hill and looked across the plateau, big round wheels from a distance turning heading for this area, still surprised as not a sole here asking Ed he says " no one except locals come to this place as foreigners not many ".

Let's have a break

We walked to the ground level and the temple hoppers that's what I called them run over " Mr Mr money one dollar please Mr Mr " oh gosh felt like another place in Asia I walked away and together we headed to the cart, near the cart was a girl who sat alone looking sad and shy and said nothing I mentioned to Ed " why can't all the kids be like her calm and relaxed ".

He told me her name was War War Knight she lived in his village, she was the poorest on the village no one really sat with her. I looked over and saw her sad face we pulled away and headed to the last temple for sun set. After the relaxed night we drove to my guest house and arranged to meet the same time in the morning, great to cool off I took a shower then hired a cycle to go to a near restaurant without lights on the one long road it was dark. I enjoyed a meal in a near by place and returned back.

The following morning Ed arrived after I had breakfast, yes the white rose giving me great pleasure we drove off he did ask if I wanted to see the 10 Century old monastery near the Irrawaddy so why not ? we drove there, slow as we went old men cycled past ringing their bells it was fun, we arrived at the monastery he then told me that War War lived in the hut on the end, so firstly entering the old teak temple a monk came out and talked with us and we sat inside with him after leaving Ed told me about War War.

He said we can see her if I wanted and we agreed to knock their door, as I walked near the hut I saw it was so rotten small and old, her mum answered and showed to be frightened of me, he said " it's ok " and we were invited in, War War saw me and redness on her face, the father looked a bit drunk and apologised for the home he had. I sat on the open slatted floor and noticed this to be the only place for them to eat, sleep, cook and relax and we chatted we arranged War War to come with us for the day so as long as I did not touch her it was ok, we waited she dressed in her best clothes and we rode off into the plateau of this Bagan plain.

She had circles on her face to protect her from burning, her eyes innocent as they were she sat talking with Ed they got along great we then learned that she walked to school every morning at 4.00am which took her three and a half hours to get there and after school back another three and a half hours.

I decided to take her to a bicycle shop we bought her, her first bike brand new to ride she chose it and she shook in fright as she rode but after a few hours she was fine so happy that now she could ride to school with her friends.

We went to markets and bought vegetables.

we took them home for them later, we then ate food in the restaurants and watched people on the river, at five o'clock we went back to the hut as her parents were there to meet us, she showed them her bike and they showed s much gratitude to me, as we then sat and talked I asked them what house was here favourite and she and the family told me that Eds home was so we looked at it across the way and returned back, I asked Ed how much it would cost to build a home like his and he said " about one thousand dollars ", deep in thought all night I worked out what money I had or could help them with as I really wanted the family to have a dream home, leaving me with $300 dollars I slept the night in piece. The following day, I went to an exchange office and put two thousand dollars over the counter to change into the Burmese Kyats putting it in a

bag wrapped in newspaper I kept it with me, then I spent time with the family and at night we talked about many things then I said to Ed " Ed tell them I have a gift for them " Ed then translated everything I told him, the mother and father opened the zip and saw newspaper and took the box out onto the slatted floor they started to open “and as the paper came off they saw the piles of money so much that they started crying right in front of me they were crying so much and realised that I'd given this to them.

I asked Ed to say " Now you can build your dream home he told them and they cried and hugged me so tight all of them it was a fantastic night for them and me also Ed cried as two thousand dollars they knew that their home would be built.

In the morning the builders who completed Ed's home took on the construction after a while I had to leave and head for Yangon I told the family that I would return next time.

A couple of months later I returned to Bagan the family were very happy, we took quite a while to continue and finish the house here is an image of War War giving gratitude to the spirits.

I knew it was time to leave and allow the family to get on with no access to them via email or phone I pondered for 28 years traveling to other countries during this time, it was time to return not knowing if they were there or not.

2018

In 2018 this takes me to the beginning of the post I experienced the beautiful views of Bagan looking for a house that I had gifted in 1996, for me this was the only way to find it.

Such a beautiful experience except I couldn't find the house from above.

I E biked around and was running out of days of the time I had remaining and the time to try and find the family.

I e-biked around everywhere and could not find the house where War War lived this is the hotel I stayed.

This pump house I was sure was near her home.

The old teak monastery I remember it 28 years ago.

Rickshaw still here.

The Irrawaddy river just near War War house but where was it, the hotel manager came looking with me for two hours.

It looks so much like the plot where War War's house was ??

How I Found it.

I prayed to God to help me find the family.

We drank fruit juice here and a voice shouting Nick Nick I know you!!

A lady came out "I'm War War's best friend you bought her a home for her family in 1996, where you been?

Here she is 28 years ago with her best friend.

Working and traveling War War not here house sold? She said.

I will take you to her friend the mums friend you'll know her it's opposite the land where the house was.

I recognise the plot and met her mum's best friend we called the mum and finally she called her daughter it was arranged that she travel by bus 🚌 🚐 to meet me in a few days so fabulous.