The images of 1990 are in my book here or visit my Publications page.
In 1990 I had landed in Thailand for a vacation, cutting a long story short, as I watched TV the local news of CNN at the Sweetie guest house, situated off Khao San, it was broadcast that the country of Vietnam was to open it's doors to the foreigner traveller's alike, so a friend of mine from Germany and I bought a ticket with Vietnam Airlines "which took some persuasion".
My first time in Vietnam I entered 33 years ago in 1990, it was announced on CNN news that the gates were about to open for tourism that week.
Here is one of Hanoi in 1990 from my old website of Panorama Asia.
In 1990 I had landed in Thailand for a vacation, cutting a long story short, as I watched TV the local news of CNN at the Sweetie guest house, situated off Khao San, it was broadcast that the country of Vietnam was to open it's doors to the foreigner traveller's alike, so a friend of mine from Germany and I bought a ticket with Vietnam Airlines "which took some persuasion".
Departing the next day the only option was "Visa on arrival" The following morning we sat in the ancient first passenger plane for Vietnam only a handful of tourists and some business people on it, the smoky atmosphere blowing everywhere, the hostesses wore a beautiful light blue and white traditional dress, they spoke French as a second language..
Beautiful area opposite the natra dam of Hanoi.
I landed in Ho Chi Minh or Saigon, the airport and customs were very happy to see the first passenger plane, I guess you could of walked in with bags of opium on your head and they still let you through well that's the way it felt.
Stepping as we did Guntard and me onto soil of Nam wow fantastic people the local ones were staring and clapping we felt like film stars, cycle drivers rushed saying " where you go".
The different faces of the Vietnamese, the natural feeling of sorrow and love for them as they were the result of the survivors after the Vietnam War that should never of happened, we stepped into a taxi all the way from the airport in Saigon and simply looked at the amazing countryside and buildings the pure feeling of we were living a dream.
The writing and colours were lovely to see and the over riding noise of the people talking, looking at Guntard and I as they were amused with the clothes and his hair in which was Ginger or red, they stared at him also my blondish brown hair, I looked on the notice board there was a bus looking for another two people leaving for Hanoi up North and the cost was $25 for the trip a fifteen day trip stopping in all the regions of Vietnam to the North and at Hue a train ride to Hanoi.
We knew the names from a travel book but to see them in the real life was yet to be gained, Guntard and I walked around Saigon for that day as the next day up at 7 am to start our journey, we entered the War Museum outside was a huge collection of bombs some tiny and huge in size laid all over the place, inside the museum was a huge map of the battle field showing all of Vietnam the Chu Chi tunnels and everything we listened to a guide talking in English and French and walked around we saw the effect of the Orange that devastated the land and after years, we saw huge jars of newly born children deformed some with two heads tightly pushed into a jar.
The clothes of the people the weapons the images of the US soldiers holding a Vietnamese head from the hair with no body and smiling many horrific images we saw them all.
After leaving there was a man on the floor without arms and legs just a body with a red beaker in his mouth waiting for money, the street kids ran from everywhere " money money Mr " they shouted.
Guntard and I were saddened we walked through the streets and saw so many motor and peddle bikes only three cars in the city, the beautiful woman here dressed in long vials with tiny necks and slim bodies they looked amazing, most of the tables in the streets had fresh flowers on them at the cafe's or restaurant's and the street venders sold many French baguettes with ham and cheese hot or cold in little tiny wooden box venders.
Guntard and I ate on the street side tables, long bread which was oily in texture. In the night time Saigon was lit up amazing lovely lights tiny and huge in sizes in the tree's all over the branches, the people in the parks in a romantic mood with the moon clear against the black sky.
Some sounds of Violin being played in the city and the whisper of the night ladies " come here where you go you nice boy " as we walked past them sad to see that in Vietnam and well that's life. We went to our guest house a dollar a night at this one, as we got an early night before the trip the next day, oh but as we slept Guntard in his bed got up put on a German hat a saluted to Hitler and sang the German National song he did this every night.
The following morning we woke to the sounds of the trader's in the streets setting up for the day in front.
Crony shower room with painted walls basic was fine the real Vietnam style we weren't looking for luxury the showers cold yes thank god the humidity in the air was stifling after we both washed we got our stuff and checked out and walked to the cafe as we had breakfast, and packed up with bottles of water and ham an cheese baguettes paid our $25 dollar and met the driver of the bus he spoke good English I remembered his face, he said that we would get to the Chu chi tunnels first, then Nha Trang then Dalat, then onto Hoian and Danang then Hue it would mean we had to get then a train to Hanoi from there the whole journey takes eighteen days to Hue.
It seemed fine so off we went we sat in the fifteen seated bus a tiny thing with everyone's backpacks and all together there were twelve, we the the first to take this trip as they only took local people before.
We drove off, on the bus were a few Israelis three of them and two French and of course Guntard and I and two from Bristol in the UK and 2 Italian a man and woman, we knew we were lucky as we were probably among the first group to travel through to Hanoi as the gates opened yesterday and we were the first to be organised from the main cafe in Saigon unless there are other cafe's but these familiar faces where the people.
I was seeing in the plane over from Thailand. Well bumper to bumper we sat riding the street Que, as we drove to the main freeway or say big road that carried us to Chu Chi tunnels obviously we all engaged into our experiences to each other about our travels, as I listened I could see the people who had little experience in travel, or who were the moaning type or not so hardened traveller, they always make it worse for others the Bristol two were these type and later on they made things annoying, the Israeli few were fantastic.
Driving through the terrain and seeing the wild buffalo and pigs, rice and salt fields with fishing nets spanning over the rivers we arrived at the Tunnels and as we pulled up there was a parking spot for our bus the area that the orange acid had burnt everything no trees no leaves or grass just nothing that was our parking area, getting out of the vehicle we looked at the area it was bringing imagination to our minds of how it was in the real time here.
Then we all followed our driver we went into the tunnels and saw so many traps of bamboo spears pointing upwards with huge square dug out holes, like double bedrooms size these had bamboo across them with green vegetation to make it un-seen, there were tiny tunnels so narrow for one body at a time and kitchens where they cooked the Viet Con that is, but the chimney of the kitchen was carved in the soil and led away over 200 meters away from the area they were very clever it was a place that confused the US army soldiers and only the Vietnamese could fit down there, some US soldiers did known as the tunnel rats.
After here we drove to Nha Trang a beach resort or in a few years it became one, I had a hair cut and ended up scalped, Guntard and I eat food on the beach with the group we all ordered different foods, fish, mussels, scallops, prawns etc, I chose a huge steak with pepper sauce, shortly after I used the washroom a hole in the mud, as I turned the back of the restaurant heading to the toilets I saw a carcass with thousands of flies, I returned to the table and asked "was my steak from the carcass out back" the man said " yes why is there a problem "“we left to take a walk, the sea was rough and we all took pictures with the driver.
We found a guest house and had again a cheap room this place was very nice quiet and cool with old fashioned carved wooden traditional furniture.
I had food poisoning really bad the driver told me to drink twelve cans of coke it burnt the infection out very quickly, we stayed a night there and ate dinner too except myself I just drank water, the next morning we ate breakfast and I felt strong, so we drove again heading up to the My Khe is just 3 km away from Da Nang's city centre of Vietnam we came to the marble mountains it was so different as the whole mountain was a different colour of marble.
We climbed inside there was a cave in the mountain and jungle vegetation outside, on the entrance the skilled workers carved beautiful pieces of work from it including huge ships, boats, flowers and people the dusty reddish floor and the white marble with a perfume smell was a time I not forget, we all ate lunch and sat on a huge table I ate fried chicken that was very boney and very little meat with sticky rice and a pepsi, the heat was unbearable along came some street children asking about our life in broken English, in ten years I'm sure they will speak fluent, the ladies of the city walked hand in hand looking at us as they found our dress of travel clothes amusing.
Their white long flared trousers were rippling in the breeze and their tight necked collar sat comfortable around their necks, they had a way of perfect poise the swan woman I called them I decided to study this fashion and learned that the Ao Dai is the most popular and widely recognised national costume of Vietnam, the Ao Dai is a symbol to show the national pride. It leaves a lasting impression to anyone who comes and visit the place.
Reflecting the grace and elegance of Vietnamese women, it is an outfit that will always be fashionable and beautiful.
No matter how many new trends will be introduced into Vietnam’s fashion mainstream, the Ao Dai remains a timeless classic no time, age, or season can dictate.
Sometimes you wondered a city and everywhere your eyes looked, new things were a joy, the different smells in the air, the shadows of the sunlight it's a great life I thought.
Mỹ Khê (China Beach), It became famous with the debarkation of US Marines in March 1965 when the United States massively entered the Vietnam War.
With it's green water and white sand China Beach was best known as a recreational area from the hell of combat with thousands of American GIs spending their holidays swimming and surfing at these beautiful 30 kilometres of golden sand, when I visited only locals were there.
Nowadays, the beach is attracting not only surfers from all over the world but also tourists on their way from Da Nang to Hoi An making a stop to bathe and enjoy the seafood, and locals trying to escape the modern-day stress.
Heading then up to Hue we drove to the Imperial City getting there mid day we then checked into a large hotel as it was near the tombs we saw the tombs first.
The Minh Mang Tomb is one of the most interesting emperor tombs in Hue. It is situated 12 km outside the city, on Cam Ke Hill, on the west bank of the Perfume River and can be reached by car or much nicer by boat so we were told.
The city was splendid and the big bridge than spanned the river was nice to walk across as swarms of people rode cycles across with the breeze blowing in their hair it gave a free feel of freedom.
We were tired so we returned I heard then as Guntard and I got back to the hotel that a lady had been taken ill as she drank water from the tap and that it had infected water, the ambulance came and took her she was not to live much longer, it was reported that the water she drank contained 200% cholera.
On that night my head went a stray and I indulged with a beautiful night lady of which the next day wished I didn't.
From here we said goodbye to the driver I'd never forget him and the other group and suddenly the Bristol two complained to the driver that they were not happy as the girl said that they were to hot in the bus and the rushing was to quick they demanded there $25 dollar back, the whole group shouted at them and supported the driver.
Guntard and I headed to Hanoi on the train it was a slow and interesting journey the sound of the track and the breeze through the window mixed with the Vietnamese voices gave the perfect experience for me and Guntard we talked about our trip so far and the great time that we have had and also wondered how the country would change as now at this present time the people of Vietnam were humble, quiet and happy also their view of Westerners was good, how long would it take that their view would change that the Western people were not what they expected, not all but those who do spoil things for others, we talked about these things.
Deep in conversation we stopped our talk to see suddenly seven children sat around us on the train sniggering at our English the brave one or two who talked a few words of our tongue and the others who hid their faces.
The seller's walked past on on the train selling buckets of sticky rice and vegetables with packed meat, and bottles of water etc, so we ate and viewed the rice fields as we travelled slowly with sounds of the track what a delight for us true traveller's, we saw buffalo drinking and cooling down also white bulls pulling the ploughs in the fields, the odd house placed in fields of the farmers, the back drops of mountain ranges and the blue clear sky.
After eighteen hours we arrived at Hanoi our stomaches had butterflies of excitement we walked from the station into the city and and in front of us was the huge lake of Hoan Kiem lake district we saw it as a hub of life for the city as all people gathered here.
The Huc (Rising sun) bridge leading to Ngoc Son temple on the lake was so beautiful as it stood their I saw the Thai chi players and sketchers of art, the violin players and the three string instrument players with dropped hats on the floor to gain money, we were looked at by all the red hair of Guntard and my blonde brown hair.
Groups of girls sit on motorbikes, chatting with their friends the old ancient shops dotted with the old old antique furniture of mother of pearl, marble inlays.
We walked through the next street and saw the array of exhibit works of art and above the few rooms for rent so to ask we got a room for 2$ a night between us, the place was welcomed by the hostess who was fine dressed in Ao Dai traditional costume of pink and white I looked at her in a different way after understanding the knowledge of her attire, with the cool marble floors and ancient art works it certainly was a place for us to stay.
As the extreme humidity up here, I took a cold shower the room had a window which I looked across the horizon over Hanoi, the simple moment of pleasure with the cold water over my body and seeing the views across Hanoi city was something that I was happy with, as I looked over the city I was able to see the types of homes that ranged from new to ancient and some destroyed from the war.
The echos of the the true violinists from this region played for hours, had I found my place of heaven my place that I thought it to be perfect ?
After we both Guntard and I walked down to the street and saw the tiny trader's of ice cream a pastel colour of the small wooden box on wheels with aluminium work top with frozen drums underneath a tiny ice scoop and see through jars of peanuts, jelly beans and condensed milk.
We asked for the long ice lolly in the drum as he opened the lid there were say sixty different holes each with an ice inside and a stick in each so he pulled out two and charged 2 dong we ate and watched it disintegrate in our hands through the humidity that soaked our clothes.
His laughter was great as he knew we would ask for more, as we did he talked in Vietnamese said something I not understand as in these moments I wish I spoke their language.
Simple things in life give you pleasure as I sucked my last ice this was ice shavings with syrup poured over it simply lovely, the Vietnamese watched from a distance and those Hanoi people started to come over they were friendly and asked us in French where we were from being Germany and the UK, they were keen to know us, as Americans were not so welcome as from the communism here.
We looked at the art in the street shops and their skill was so detailed it was a pleasure to see it, the shops had lots of lacquer wear inlaid with mother of pearl, usual sizes were a meter tall and six segments and in the Hoan Kiem Lake there were lacquer wear inlaid showing the lake.
Some of the old antique shops had so much old items it was impossible to list, there were the elder playing board games in the street gambling and local Vietnamese sat smoking on park benches and bicycles, the women looked in motorbike mirrors trying to apply lipstick and file their nails.
The kids played with kites blowing in the wind and the elders smoked and watched the life passing by, the benches were placed off the walk area and the old trees played a huge part on the lake, the turtle on the rock in the middle was the mystery of this place. Flying birds in cages let out by the locals wishing for luck and joss sticks smoking at the bottom of the trees all gave this area a romance never to forget.
Riders on bikes elegant ladies dressed in their Ao Dai's cycle upright so pleasurable to watch and motor bike piled with two open nets packed with dogs going to the slaughter.
I followed the bike and eventually ended up down a tiny alleyway it led to a courtyard that no foreigner's were allowed to go, we got in gave a few dollars and saw a place where all the dog's were slaughtered, then to be fried in huge wok's ready for soups as in Vietnam anything on legs will be eaten.
We left that place and sat at the street vender feeling ill, we will always love dogs, gecko in jars as an aphrodisiac many be not. Just a cool pepsi for now as after thinking of what we just saw there was no way I felt hungry.
Near by was The Ho Chi Minh Museum, It was built in memory of a great man whose name is written in golden alphabets in the history of Vietnam.
The special person was a great revolutionary and statesman and went on to become first the Prime Minister and then the President of North Vietnam.
The great man was none other than Ho Chi Minh. The common people of Vietnam are indebted to him for what he has done for his country and as a mark of their gratitude the museum was dedicated to him apart from a city and a mausoleum which also shares his name.
French quarter was interesting the array of Embassies and huge trees, many trader's were sitting on the street sides with bamboo circle tray's of their produce to sell to walkers by each with tiny weighing scales for calculations of the cost, sugar cane cut into one inch pieces brown in colour, and dried or fresh fish filled the air with that strong smell, bear footed monks quietly breezed by in their red robes as sleepy rickshaw drivers pulled over to take a ten minute nap.
A street vender sold eggs to the locals, she wore her pyjamas, toddlers squeak past with their trendy squeaky shoes, a bicycle is placed against the wall in a busy street with woven baskets piled up on top next to the tall sugar canes ready for the chop, with steamed rice cooking in the street, it's steam oozing out of the lid of the pot while the ting tak tok sounds beat the street wok's ready to prepare the ordered food, birds tweet sweetly sat in the trees this is my place that gives the feeling of true Vietnam the wing of the the plane protrudes from the roof of a building next to the Hanoi Hilton, the old lady walks past with a bamboo pole straddles her shoulders weighed down by yellow baby chicks.
How much I cherish this year in Vietnam 1990.
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